Ah, the glamorous Côte d’Azur. That ritzy, glitzy stretch of coastline known for its beautiful beaches, fabulous habitué, and people-watching par excellence. Though covet the Riviera’s azure seawaters we do, it’s the glistening hotel pools that really cause our heads to turn in these parts.
Whether floating about with famous guests, regaling stories of infamous soirées on the pool deck, or just lounging with a rosé in hand, this stretch of southern France has perfected the art of summering. Shall we dive right in?
LES ROCHES ROUGES
As seaside settings go, Les Roches Rouges is up there. The St Raphaël surfside hideaway, originally built in the 1950s, draws a modern Riviera-style crowd; more bucket hats and sliders than rattan visors and pool heels. Lap up views of the Med during your laps in the 30-metre lane pool.
Alternatively, float about in the saltwater, stone-carved version which shoulders the sea. Traverse from pool to ocean via pontoon bridge or take to the Colgate-white, wood-framed loungers instead to dry off. On Friday nights there’s live music at the pool adjacent La Cabane. Peak summer, it’s something of a vibe.
Poolside prop Rose-tinted lenses fall second to these old-meets-new Loewe flower sunglasses in cactus green.
CAP ESTEL
With Monaco and Nice a pebble’s throw away, Cap Estel in Èze is just far enough away from the madding crowd to feel suitably secluded without fear of being labelled ‘antisocial’ (quel dommage).
Perched on a private peninsula poking out into the deep-blue Med, there’s, yes, a private beach, but it’s the hotel’s saltwater infinity pool that guests prefer to flock to. A friend of Oscar Wilde’s first founded the place in 1900 and movie stars and moguls alike have splashed about here since, undoubtedly pausing for refreshments at the Pool House before returning to the water once more to admire those beguiling sea views. Its guestbook probably belongs in a museum.
Poolside prop Keep face and lather on La Mer The SPF 50 UV Protecting Fluid daily, a summer must-carry in these sun-drenched parts.
VILLA MARIE SAINT TROPEZ
The heated pool terrace at Villa Marie Saint Tropez, a bohemian base in Ramatuelle, could give a prime beach spot on Saint Tropez’s sands a run for its money. Facing out to the Pampelonne Bay, it’s the best of both at the hotel’s landscaped-to-perfection, pine-fringed pool.
Sip on rosé from neighbouring Chateau Minuty vineyard while surveying the cobalt sea below, scents of jasmine and lavender circulating in the air. Can you spy the beach club carry-on from such a height? We’ve definitely tried…
Poolside prop The Fitzgeralds knew their way around the Riviera pretty well; pick up a copy of Tender is the Night by F Scott and get acquainted.
LA RÉSERVE RAMATUELLE
La Réserve Ramatuelle is catnip for chic, discrete types. The 1950s building beloved by the gypset plays host to 10,000 square-foot spa (the spa pool has a jet lane, FYI), and the outdoor pool is suitably serene. Contemporary threads are par for the course here, and at the pool restaurant which is shrouded in sails.
In addition to the main pool, many of the villas have their own private pools – which is where most guests will choose to cool off. For a change of scene, La Réserve à la Plage, the hotel’s Philippe Starck-designed beach club on Pampelonne beach is a breezy 15km away.
Poolside prop A classic linen shirt, like this relaxed Anabela Shirt from Casa Raki x Candice Lake. Throw it on en route to lunch, or cover those shoulders as the sun ascends.
LE MAS DE CHASTELAS
A little inland, in the village of Gassin, Le Mas de Chastelas sits pretty. Though just outside of St Tropez, you’ll feel a million miles away sat here by the cypress-flanked heated pool. Play peekaboo with the sun while resting horizontal on your putty-hued sun lounger or seek some secluded spots to soak up rays undisturbed.
Operating as a hotel since the 1960s – and popular with stars of the day – its lunchtime setup under the gazebo is a winning, and lasting formula for days when beach clubs are the last thing you’re craving.
Poolside prop A Maison Michel sunhat – quintessentially French, and ideal for keeping cool and collected in the baking sun.
Travelling en masse? Here’s our pick of family-friendly stays in the south of France
Gilly Hopper is the founder of Thesp, a social club dedicated to theatre, and a freelance journalist for the likes of Condé Nast Traveller, Vanity Fair, Suitcase and more. She is also a keen traveller and arts enthusiast.